2009 Adventures

With each passing day, I grow more irritated with Latin American men.

Yes, it’s time to revisit that theme.

Today was a prime example of one of “those” days. I left my apartment in search of sushi and fresh mozzarella (e.g., nirvana), and headed for the nearest subway stop. As I walked along, about 75% percent of the passing men did the routine “hola, hermosa, preciosa” comment business, which I barely notice any more. I got on the subway, which was packed, and a man was standing in front of where I sat. After a moment, I glanced up and saw that he was staring down at me. I looked away but could still feel his creepy stare. After another minute of this, I treated him to a specialty irritated glare. A full 30 seconds had no effect whatsoever–he actually leaned in closer!–so I got up and pushed though the crowd to get away because he was making me so uncomfortable.

I got off near beautiful Recoleta–my second favorite area of the city next to San Telmo–and strolled along, enjoying the gorgeous day and blessed lack of neon signs. It’s a lovely place, full of doormen and high-end shops. The men there are more educated and…classier, I suppose, so I usually enjoy the peace of walking without haraassment. Today, however, while waiting for a light, I noticed that a man next to me was standing too close. I looked over, and he blatantly looked me up and down and then, very aggressively, met my eyes and stepped closer. Another of the super-bitch stares and a quiet but angry “back off, fu$*er” made him step away, muttering rude things in Spanish.

Then, just to top things off, one of the doorman in Recoleta who was standing inside actually knocked on the glass to get my attention as I passed by, since I couldn’t hear his comments. UGH.

Now, lest you think I’m getting a big head, keep in mind that men here are not discriminating when it comes to harassing women. They don’t care what you look like–they’ll do their rude thing to anyone. But they reserve the biggest assault for blondes because we’re super freaks in a sea of dark hair. They see my head coming from blocks away, and have all that time to work up their best material.

It’s like living in a country where EVERY MAN is a creepy construction worker. Wow. I love Latin America, but it’s beginning to wear on my nerves.

(Not to worry, I love Buenos Aires and I’m perfectly safe. Just needed the opportunity to vent.)

Two weeks in Buenos Aires, one blog post, and two photo galleries. Pathetic, I know. So for today, a quickie post while I’m on a lunch break from work.

The Michigan Tech concert choir, who I’ve been singing with off and on for the past six years, is on a two-week tour of Argentina and Chile. They began the tour in Buenos Aires last week, so I got to spend a few days rehearsing and performing with them here in the city. It was lovely to see everyone and meet alumni/friends/choir members I didn’t know. Another perk? Being able to speak at my normal rapid rate–a luxury when everyone you know speaks English as a second language. We had a fantastic workshop with Argentine composer/arranger Oscar Escalada, who was delightful. And forgiving, even though we butchered one of his pieces during our concert. (If only I sounded as cute speaking Spanish as he did speaking English.)  Speaking of the concert–it was in a church that might just be the most stunning place I’ve performed in to date. I’ll post photos/video later today.

And after I spent all week telling the choir that I was going to stick around BA until Christmas…I’ve changed my mind. (You’re all surprised, I know.) Thinking about the places the choir is going–Rosario, Mendoza, Chile–got me thinking about the places I need to visit, which prompted a massive internet search for apartments in a new city. I’m really digging the idea of Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, but I’m not having any luck with the apartment search there. Bariloche is next on my list.

Until then, I have two more weeks in Buenos Aires. I love the city–it’d be an excellent place for a more permanent relocation, if I was considering such a thing. (I’m not.) Goal for this week? Find a Spanish school.

Hola, everyone! Tonight, instead of a blog post–because I don’t have the mental fortitude to craft an engaging narrative (how’s THAT for an excuse)–I’m going to do my first few days in Buenos Aires by the numbers.

Electronic items I’ve fried: 2
Electronic items I fried within an hour of arrival: 1
New phones purchased: 2
Phones purchased because I fried the one from the States: 1
Cell phones I can’t figure out: 1
Times used my new cell phone: 0 (see above)

Taxis taken: 1
Hours spent walking the city: 15+
Hours spent on the subte (subway): 2
Hours spent on the bus: .25

Hours spent lost: 4
Hours spent trying not to look lost: 4

Performances attended of El Fantasma de la Opera: 2
Days passed between performances: 2
Times I plan to see it again: at least 1
Cost of ticket: 90 pesos ($23.50)
Theater ushers that could pass for male models: 6
Times I mispronounced “Pringles” in Spanish: 4
Times I’ve tried to order Pringles: 1
Minutes spent supressing giggles because Pringles are pronounced “Pring-lays” in Spanish: 5

Meals cooked in apartment kitchen: 2
Scrambled eggs: 1
Pasta: 1
Failed pasta dishes: 1
Bags of dulce de leche cookies consumed because I can’t cook: 5
Pears consumed because they don’t require cooking: 4
Rolls dipped in olive oil consumed as a last resort: 4

Times I’ve considered ordering pizza from the corner place: 5
Times I’ve been scared away by people in restaurant who will overhear my Spanish: 5

Empanadas eaten: 2
Empanadas enjoyed : 0 (too doughy)
Minutes spent building the courage to order empanadas in Spanish: 15
Pats on the back for remembering to pronounce “pollo” with an Argentine accent: 1

Restaurants I’ve visited: 1
Restaurants I’ve avoided because they look terrifying: countless

Machismo male comments on the street: 500+
Rude machismo male comments: 1
Times I’ve avoided looking anywhere near men to avoid encouraging: 498
Times I slipped up: 1
Times followed by an encouraged Argentine man: 1
Times shut down said Argentine man: 1

Moments I’ve felt unsafe in the city: 0
Moments I’ve felt unsafe walking alone after dark: 0

Cheek kisses required upon meeting someone new: 1
Strangers I’ve cheek-kissed: 4
Group size that requires you kiss every person upon entry: 10

Viewings of Evita: 1
Hours spent singing “Watch out, Buenos Aires” as I walk around: 2

Walks past La Casa Rosada: 15
Times I’ve loved walking past La Casa Rosada: 15

Pathetic pictures taken 200+
Great pictures taken: 0
New cameras purchased: 1
Hours spent learning to use new camera: 0

Visits to tango dance clubs: 0
Visits to tango dance clubs come Friday: 1
Minutes spent in a panic at being asked to dance at tango dance club: 100

Moments spent thinking about how much I love Buenos Aires: 1000000