Two of my favorite things about traveling are 1) other travelers and 2) having my laundry done.
Let’s talk about laundry. There are few things that feel more decadent than dropping off a big bag of laundry and, a few hours and a few dollars later, picking up a nice bunch of clean, folded clothes. No hours with the washer and dryer, no worrying about quarters or detergent. In Central America, where there are relatively few Western conveniences, this is a small joy that makes a big difference.
I’m about to go pick up my laundry, and I’m very much looking forward to clean clothes. 
And now, on to other travelers. I realize it’s coming a week late, but last weekend was the best of the trip so far. After two weeks of relative isolation–what with the bus-riding and non-hosteling and puking–I was thrilled to be able to stay in a dorm and chat with other people. On Friday, I hopped a shuttle to Panajachel, the gateway town on Lake Atitlan, and caught a boat from there to San Pedro on the other side of the lake. No big backpack, no laptops to worry about, and no plans. Apparently, I’ve learned something from traveling in regions where I’m seen as a walking ATM–the boat driver tried to charge me (and a Polish guy I met on the shuttle) 300 quetzales (about $37) for the trip, and I got him down to 30. In Spanish. !!
Lake Atitlan is downright stunning. Someone famous–can’t remember who–once called it “the most beautiful lake in the world.” I don’t know about that, but it’s up there. (I’m biased toward Lake Superior) It’s huge, and ringed with towering volcanoes and picturesque cliffs. When the fog rolls in around 3:00, it looks like something out of Jurassic Park. Small towns are scattered around the banks, and a network of water taxis run from place to place. To catch one, you stand on the dock of your town or hotel and wave them down–an excellent way to travel.
On Saturday, I headed to Santa Cruz, where La Iguana hostel has a costume barbecue every weekend. Yes, costume. After checking into the open-air dorm (complete with a Willie Nelson photo), I raided the costume room with Maria from Germany. And that evening, I stepped out wearing shiny green leggings with stirrup bottoms (yes!) and shamrocks, a pink dress, and a flowered robe. And I forgot to take pictures! The barbecue was amazing, and it was followed by live music, and then a group of us sat around the fire until 4am, singing. Kind of surreal, actually, and funny that the only song everyone knew–people from 10 different countries–was by Britney Spears. Ridiculous.
Travelers are such a great joy–well, most of them. One guy from Texas was absolutely obnoxious, and insisted on wearing cowboy boots with shorts and a machete stuck in the waist band. After meeting him, German Maria said to me, “If I was an American girl, I think I’d die alone.” haha Most people, though, have such interesting stories and experiences, and it’s endlessly fascinating to learn about them. Rory from Ireland (in the “elegant blue dress”) is volunteering at a place near Antigua, and his accent disappears when he speaks Spanish. Shea from Israel has been traveling for 7 months and knows every word to “American Pie.” I can’t wait till I’m back in hostels–I’m not sure the convenience of an apartment makes up for the loss of fascinating people.
The sun was shining on Sunday morning, and I headed to the docks with a bunch of the previous evening’s singers, and proceeded to get a spectacular sunburn despite the layers of sunblock. Ow. I’m now peeling, and look diseased. Atitlan was perfect–except for Panajachel, where at least three men called me “Barbie”–I returned to Xela relaxed and happy. And armed with rude Spanish things to tell harassing men, compliments of a Guatemalan guy I met at La Iguana.
People have been telling me about Xela’s main market, and on Monday I decided to make the long walk there. On the way, I ran into an older Scottish woman I met on the shuttle from Pana to Xela, and she asked to come along. The market is absolutely enormous, a maze of rows of fruit and vegetables and literally anything else you could want. We stopped at one stand with at least 6 different types of mangoes–they were amazing. Everywhere we went, whispers of “mira, Gringas” followed us. No wonder–we were the only westerners in sight.
And after a week spent up to my eyeballs in website code, it’s the weekend again! Tomorrow, I’m going to visit some natural hot springs, and on Sunday I’m heading by chicken bus to the famous Chichicastenango. Oh, and I had another delightful run-in with theft–my debit card # and pin were apparently recorded at an ATM in Panajachel and used. I’m now out over $800, but should only be liable for $50 of it. Thankfully, I have a job to replace the money and I’m not on a backpacker budget, but it’s a huge inconvenience until the fraud investigation finishes and my new debit card arrives. Welcome to Guatemala.
Look out for hot springs and Chichi photos!
