2009 Adventures


Archive for May, 2009


Adios, Central America

I’ve been back in the States for a week, but I have two more albums. The rest of the trip was uneventful, with the exception of our near-deportation from Costa Rica. When crossing over from Panama, we couldn’t find the Costa Rica immigration, and figured the one we’d been to would suffice. Not so, it seems. After the flight from Quepos to San Jose, the woman checking our passports noticed the lack of an entrance stamp–we were in the country illegally! So, after several hours in the depressing immigration office and many serious phone calls in Spanish, we were given papers to bring to the airport office. (Luckily, we both had proof of our outgoing flights for the next morning, so they knew we weren’t intentionally illegal.) And as it turns out, the international airport didn’t even need the papers–they shoved mine in a drawer after looking at it with confusion.

…I kind of wish we had been deported. THAT would have been a good story. :)

I landed in SLC and took the Amtrak–my first time on an American train–to Reno, where I’m visiting my dad for a couple of weeks. I’ll be heading back to SLC next week to pick up my Jeep from storage and my sister from the airport, and we’re going to spend a week in Glacier National Park. Look out for more photos! (And there are plans in the works for more exciting adventures…)

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Adios, Costa Rica

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Nevada and California

Pura Vida

As much as I love to be right, I’m willing to admit when I’m wrong. Up until last week, I was disdainful of Costa Rica. Too touristy, too Westernized, too many tall hotels and package tours. A place for vacationers, not travelers. I couldn’t imagine that such a place would be particularly enjoyable. Costa Rica, I thought, was the kind of place for people who think cruises are high adventure–people with no imagination. (Yes, I know that makes me sound like a jackass, but the idea of being trapped on a cruise ship with silly day tours and fanny-pack wearing tourists makes me want to die.) In short, I was certain that Costa Rica was like a giant DisneyWorld–not for me.

I was wrong–oh, was I wrong. The moment we crossed the border from Panama, Costa Rica had me. From the first glance of the incredible green hills and palm tree forests, I was a fool in love, destined to gush at the mere mention of its name. Ten minutes in the country, and all of my negative perceptions evaporated.

It’s that beautiful.

Oh, it’s difficult to explain the degree of beauty. The country is so beautiful, it’s mesmerizing. Even through the bus-induced misery haze, I couldn’t stop looking, trying to see every detail of the scenery that crawled by the windows. Mist dances around rainforest-covered mountains, palm trees grow in an incredible variety, and ripe mangoes hang heavy from roadside trees.

After the bus ride from hell, we staggered off of the bus in Dominical, a sleepy surfer town. A few businesses, some ratty hostels with sand on every surface, and a stunner of a beach. Perfect! We settled into the dirtiest hostel I’ve ever encountered (it was dark and we were tired), and went to bed early. The next day was one of my favorites of the entire trip–and I did absolutely nothing. Sat on the beach reading my National Geographic Adventure and Outside magazines, and spent a good two hours playing in enormous waves with a character of a Canadian named Mitch. A massive back-of-the-leg sunburn later, I couldn’t bend my legs, but the day was so blissfully relaxing that I couldn’t be bothered to care. :)

The rest of Costa Rica was relatively uneventful…we took a bus to Manuel Antonio, and spent the day wandering in the national park, hiking through the rainforest to remote, deserted beaches. At one point, I fell into the ocean fully dressed and was washed into some rocks by a wave–smooth. Manuel Antonio was more of what I imagined Costa Rica to be–more expensive and catering largely to tourists–but still lovely.

And, Costa Rica was my last Central American country, and my 23rd overall!

And we skipped the Costa Rica immigration…

There is a special face that travelers wear after a particularly long day of travel, a face that speaks volumes about bus rides and border officials and language struggles and lack of a bathroom and heat and sheer exhaustion.

On Sunday around 4pm, that was me. We were squashed onto a bus that was clearly intended for short city trips–hard plastic seats, no luggage storage space, windows that barely open. There were people standing in the aisles, people in all of the seats, fruit hawkers roaming the aisle, and it was about 150 degrees. We rode this way for FOUR HOURS, and every time the bus driver stopped–which he did, frequently, for every passenger on the road–the tiny breeze stopped and the oppressive heat settled heavily. Nausea set in. Claustrophobia threatened. The world was fuzzy around the edges.

I thought I would die.

I’ve never had such a miserable ride in my life. Even the buses in Nepal were better, and every minute on those buses had me convinced that death by brake failure was just around the corner.

What a lovely welcome to Costa Rica.

I had a four-day mini vacation, and my only goal was to find a beach and relax–too many days in front of my laptop and rainy afternoons had left my skin pale and my brain fried. We flew to David on Friday (25 minutes in a non-air-conditioned plane), and after one night and a lovely kayak trip on Isla Boca Brava–a little island in Panama’s Golfo de Chiriqui–we decided to head for Costa Rica. We hitched a ride to the highway on Sunday morning, and were dropped off in the middle of nowhere. (not to worry, buses are everywhere and easily flagged down) A quick minivan ride to David, a bus ride to the border, and we were in Costa Rica.

Which, of course, brings us to the horror of the Ciudad Neily to Dominical bus ride. It was a sharp contrast to our travels in Panama, which were remarkably painless. Panama is a gorgeous country, and doesn’t seem to have anything (besides the Canal) that makes it stand out from the rest of Central America. Guatemala has the Mayan history, Honduras has the diving, El Salvador is famously un-touristy, Nicaragua is recovering from the civil war, Costa Rica has the natural beauty, and Panama…is just Panama. Not too poor, not too rich, pretty but not spectacular. The people are pleasant, and the travelers interesting–we hung out in David (which looks like nothing so much as Florida) with a funny Canadian and a California girl who told me my aura was bright and happy.

All in all, a lovely place. And it left me wanting another exciting travel experience–the sailboat ride from Panama City to Cartagena in Colombia. Five days on a boat, stopping in the San Blas islands. Who’s coming with me?

Vacation!

I’ve been on a mini-vacation for the past couple of days, and I’ll write soon. Until then, lots of photos! Is anyone having trouble making the links work? I try to post the link and the little image link each time.

Pictures from Panama–Isla Boca Brava–and Dominical, Costa Rica

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Vacation!

Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

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Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

Pictures from the whole trip, pulled from Corey’s camera.

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Pics from Corey’s Camera

Bocas del Toro

After a super-cold overnight bus from Panama City–during which I slept through immigration–we made it to the sketchy town of Almirante in the wee hours of Wednesday morning, and hopped immediately on a water taxi (e.g., a motorboat) to Bocas del Toro (town, not archipelago or province) on Isla Colon. I’d read and heard a good deal about Bocas, the much-lauded island paradise of Panama, and was excited to spend a few days relaxing in the sun. Perfect tropical beaches, everyone says. White sand. Palm trees.

Well, there were plam trees. And the beaches I saw were only okay (Corey took a boat tour and saw more–I had to work). Basically, Bocas del Toro is a giant tourist trap. $15 dinners in Central America?? Ridiculous.

It was a nice-ish place, though–a typical Central American beach town. “It’s kind of dirty,” said Corey. Funny, when I was thinking how clean it was relative to some of the places I’ve come across! I explored the town from end to end in under an hour, bought overpriced mangoes ($1.50 EACH) at a store, and that was it. We did find a soccer game going on…next to the airport runway, which seems to turn into a track in the evening. There were scores of people walking and running around the perimeter, and we hung out for a while on the bleachers watching both the soccer and the walkers.

Yesterday, we rented bikes in the afternoon, great, brightly colored older bikes with character to spare, and pedaled up the east coast of Isla Colon. The road turned from pavement to potholes to sand, and we rode until our bike tires sunk in the mud.  After a while, the tourist-friendly shops gave way to houses, which gave way to dense, incredibly green jungle. Palm trees line the roads, and the occasional beach shack balances on stilts above the sand. It was stunning–exactly what I’d want out of an island in Panama, or anywhere. We stopped to take pictures with palm trees and sea urchins, and pedaled back to town in time to return our bikes to the stand. The owner had informed us that we could have them for two hours–he clearly wanted to close up shop for the evening and didn’t want two giggling gringos to ruin his evening. :)

On the recommendation of our hostel’s front desk worker, we headed for a little place called Ultimo Refugio, the “second best place in town.” (the best place was closed) It’s a little wooden shack teetering on posts above the water, overlooking the sailboats that dot the bay. We ordered mahi-mahi with pineapple and ginger sauce, and it was the single best meal I’ve had on the trip. Expensive, but well worth the cost.

Panama is a funny place. It’s Central America, but I continue to notice a broader ethnic range than in the surrounding countries. And even in the small towns, that sense of desperate poverty is missing. It’s nice to see people who aren’t struggling *quite* as much. Everything is easy, and I feel like some of the challenge is missing. That’s soon to be rectified, however, as Corey and I will be embarking upon some off-the-beaten-path adventure in the next four days.

Bocas photos and bike riding video:

http://picasaweb.google.com/eekauppi/BocasDelToro?feat=directlink

Bocas del Toro

Panama!

Well, we made it to Panama City, and I am now closer to South America than I’ve ever been. It’s killing me, knowing that a new continent is so close and I can’t go! Thankfully, the rain has stopped and it’s been a beautiful two days.

After Corey finally arrived on Sunday night, we set out in search of food–but since it was an election day and a Sunday, the only thing we found was a little restaurant in the casino/tourist district (in other words, the most expensive area of the city). After sampling the local fish, corvina, we headed back to our slightly dank hostel for a much needed sleep. Nothing like spending the night in a room filled with other stinky travelers. :)

Panama City reminds me a bit of Dubai…very westernized, with just a few hints that you’re in another culture. It’s a small city, and easily the most comfortable I’ve seen in Central America. Lots of American and European products available to satisfy the huge expat population, and the poverty seems to be significantly lower than in the rest of the region. Granted, I’ve only seen parts of the city, so this may or may not be true.

We had the full tourist experience yesterday, from overpriced cab rides to the Panama Canal to the biggest mall ever. After work, our friendly cab driver, Rafael, drove us out to the Miraflores Locks, which are on the Pacific side of the canal. (There’s another set on the other side.) After watching a 15 minute film (a cinematic delight), we wandered through the on site museum and headed back outside to watch a huge ship come through. When it entered the lock, the first doors closed, and water was pumped into the next channel to even out the water levels. Then, the second set of doors opened and the ship floated through. The entire process took less than a half hour, and was interesting to watch…though I must say, one visit is probably enough! The video we watched put special focus on Panama’s regaining control of the Canal Zone, and rather pointedly showed crowds of Panamanians cheering as the US relinquished control and the Panama president hugged Carter.

Rafael had mentioned the Albrook Mall, which is apparently one of the largest in Central America, so we decided to check it out and have a quick dinner. He wasn’t kidding–it’s enormous! The people-watching was great, and we spotted many, many ill-conceived outfits that involved skin-tight jeans. It was an interesting cross-section of Panama City’s cultural makeup, which is considerably more diverse than neighboring countries. The relative wealth of the people is striking in comparison with countries like Nicaragua, where there’s an almost palpable sense of poverty. According to a man I met on the plane from Miami, Panama City has low prices and relatively high incomes, which make it a comfortable place for expats. (He also made me guess how much his manicure was–$2.50, in case you’re wondering.) And with the jobs generated by the canal–even more now that it’s expanding–the number of foreigners is likely to increase. As a tourist, it’s nice to be able to wander around without being harassed continuously, though I can’t shake the feeling that it’s TOO easy. I like my travel with a bit of an edge. :)

This evening, we’re going to wander around the old colonial part of the city before hopping on an overnight bus to Almirante. From there, we’ll take a water taxi to the island of Bocas del Toro, where the beaches are supposed to be lovely.

Photos–and video!–of the first few days in Panama:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eekauppi/ChicagoPanama?feat=directlink

Chicago-Panama

Back to Central America!

After many, many hours of being awake, I’m finally in the hostel in Panama City. It’s pouring and humid, but both the taxi driver and a guy I met on the plane assure me that we will see the sun.

…I forgot, when planning the Panama-Costa Rica leg of the trip, that we have entered the rainy season. Also, word on the street is that the surfing is better when it’s raining. :)

Corey, unfortunately, is not here relaxing in the hostel with me. His flight was delayed in Houston, and he’ll be arriving in a few hours.